Grip on steering wheel may be all Mboweni has
Policy decisions are based on guesses - because everyone's take on life is different and no one's version of reality is reliable.
Often they are educated guesses. When Reserve Bank governor Tito Mboweni and his monetary policy committee (MPC) make a call on interest rates, their decision could be called a very educated guess, based on vast quantities of the best available information.
But the best available information just isn't good enough. For a start, it's out of date before it reaches the governor's desk.
US Federal Reserve Board chairman Ben Bernanke dealt with this and other problems facing central bank governors in a speech in December 2004, long before his appointment last year as chairman.
He compared driving monetary policy to driving a car with "an unreliable speedometer, a foggy windshield and a tendency to respond unpredictably, and with a delay to the accelerator or the brake".
He explained that the data are available only after a lag, and that collecting and collating it is an imperfect process. So it's very difficult for anyone to determine precisely where an economy is in the cycle at any particular point.
It's also impossible to know whether the key central bank rate is at an appropriate level.
That's because "a family decision to buy a new home or a firm's decision to acquire new capital goods depend much more on longer-term interest rates - mortgage rates and corporate bond rates - than on the Federal funds rate", said Bernanke.
And long-term rates, in turn, depend on how "financial market participants expect the Federal funds rate and other short term rates to evolve over time".
So the process is circular.
In the circumstances, Bernanke said, driving monetary policy was like driving "a car whose speed at a particular moment depends not on the pressure on the accelerator at that moment, but on the expected average pressure on the accelerator over the rest of the trip".
That's as scary as finding out the bus driver left his glasses at home and borrowed a pair from a passenger.
The theme of uncertainty was picked up last month by Federal vice-chairman Donald Kohn. Forecasts of inflation, reflected by financial market movements, "only give us a sense of where inflation is expected to go, not why it is going there", he said.
His point was that, unless the central bank knows what is driving inflation, it can't decide on the appropriate policy move.
Of course, the greatest unknown - that central bankers know they don't know - is when monetary policy will kick in.
There is a lag before changes in interest rates affect borrowing and spending. But no one is sure exactly how long it will take, or how sharp the response will be when it comes.
Households and businesses can't immediately change course; moreover, if they did, the move might be too sharp.
And the process might have to be abruptly reversed.
Chris Stals, Mboweni's predecessor, once admitted that making monetary policy decisions was like launching an unguided missile and hoping it would arrive at the right spot.
A tiny error in the launch angle and it would overshoot its target by many multiples, he said.
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Auto Seats
An Overview Of Car Seat Covers
Car seat covers come in different sizes and shapes for various models of cars in the market. They come as bucket seats with headrests, single benches with split headrests, split benches with headrests, bucket and bench seats with armrests, solid benches and high- and low-back bucket seat covers, etc.
Car owners can choose their own materials for covering their seats. Sheepskin car seat covers, Hawaiian print covers and, of course, custom-made covers for your own model of car are now available in the market. They come in a wide range of prices starting from the inexpensive ones you get in the supermarket, which are usually ill-fitted for most seats, to very expensive custom-made leather seat covers, which give your car an elegant look.
Popular brand manufacturers of seat covers include Wet Okole, Covercraft, Cal Trend Auto Accessories and Shearcomfort.
Car seat care from Wet Okole includes routine washing of the seats with their special wetsuit shampoo and using their Hawaii Seat cover UV Protectant that stops the ultraviolet rays of the sun from damaging the seat covers.
Some important factors have to be taken into consideration when buying the perfect cover for your car seats. Seat covers should fit the model and make of your car. One has to take into account the price and quality of the covers; for example, inexpensive covers that are mass produced may not last very long. It is important to select covers that are machine washable and water repellant and to buy them from manufacturers who offer a life-time warranty.
Headrests are fitted on to the seats in different ways. If you select a cover for a headrest with two posts, make sure your car headrests are not supported by just one post. Also, take into consideration the fit of your seat belt, as some covers come with attached seat belts, which you may not need if your car already has them fitted to the upholstery.
Car seat covers come in different sizes and shapes for various models of cars in the market. They come as bucket seats with headrests, single benches with split headrests, split benches with headrests, bucket and bench seats with armrests, solid benches and high- and low-back bucket seat covers, etc.
Car owners can choose their own materials for covering their seats. Sheepskin car seat covers, Hawaiian print covers and, of course, custom-made covers for your own model of car are now available in the market. They come in a wide range of prices starting from the inexpensive ones you get in the supermarket, which are usually ill-fitted for most seats, to very expensive custom-made leather seat covers, which give your car an elegant look.
Popular brand manufacturers of seat covers include Wet Okole, Covercraft, Cal Trend Auto Accessories and Shearcomfort.
Car seat care from Wet Okole includes routine washing of the seats with their special wetsuit shampoo and using their Hawaii Seat cover UV Protectant that stops the ultraviolet rays of the sun from damaging the seat covers.
Some important factors have to be taken into consideration when buying the perfect cover for your car seats. Seat covers should fit the model and make of your car. One has to take into account the price and quality of the covers; for example, inexpensive covers that are mass produced may not last very long. It is important to select covers that are machine washable and water repellant and to buy them from manufacturers who offer a life-time warranty.
Headrests are fitted on to the seats in different ways. If you select a cover for a headrest with two posts, make sure your car headrests are not supported by just one post. Also, take into consideration the fit of your seat belt, as some covers come with attached seat belts, which you may not need if your car already has them fitted to the upholstery.
Automotive Decals
How To Install & Apply Car Vinyl Graphics
Adding a vinyl graphics kit to your car is fairly simple and an inexpensive mod that will make a dramatic change to how your car looks. Car decals consist of three layers. The first or top layer of the decal is the piece that holds the entire application together until it is installed on a car. The middle layer is the actual decal that adheres to the car and the bottom layer is the wax backing that preserves the adhesive.
Items You Will Need:
Vinyl Graphics
Store Bought Application Fluid or Spray Bottle With Soap Water
(Mix 1 teaspoon of mild soap with 1 gallon of water)
Paper Towel Roll
Step By Step DIY Instructions:
1. Completely clean the outside of your car or the decal application area to remove any grease or dust particles that may prevent the decal from sticking to the surface. Make sure when you dry the car that you use a lint free cloth.
Never use harsh ammonia based cleaning products (i.e. Window Cleaner), they will cause your decals to bubble and peel a few weeks after application.
2. Test fit the decal on your car to figure out exactly where you want to apply the graphic with all 3 layers intact.
3. Use your spray bottle to wet the area where you are applying the sticker. Make sure there are no dry areas.
4. Peel the wax paper backing off of the decal to expose the adhesive side and spray lightly with the soap water mixture. Do not peel the top layer off just yet.
5. Put the sticky side of the decal to the surface of the car where you want it applied. Slide the decal around gently to make any adjustments until it is properly placed in the area you selected. Be careful not to rip it.
We recommend when applying larger graphics that you recruit a friend or two to help so avoid putting creases into the vinyl.
6. Using your squeegee, work all of the fluid and bubbles from the vinyl starting at the center and working your way out to the edges. Repeat the process a couple of times if necessary to get all of the soap water and trapped air from underneath the decal.
7. With the decal on your car, now spray the entire sticker to neutralize the glue. Squeegee it again to remove any remaining air pockets or fluids.
8. At this point, take a break. The decal needs to remain on your car for approximately 1/2 hour to a full hour depending on how warm it is outdoors. If you do not have time for the decal to dry on it's own, you can use a blowdryer on a low setting on the decal. Once it has dried, remove the top application layer peeling it straight up to reveal the decal. If the vinyl peels off when removing the top layer, go back to step 6. Make sure you do not try to remove the remaining layer until it is dry again.
9. With the vinyl on your car, trim any edges with excess vinyl using a sharp tool such as a razor. To tuck the edges around doors and gas caps, use a blowdryer to dry first and then pinch the edges to form it into place.
10. To ensure that you got all of the air bubbles from underneath the decal, you should give it one more good spray and run your squeegee over the decal one last time. Although you can drive your car without fear of the decals flying off, we suggest you wait 24 hours before washing, waxing or driving through rain/snow.
Adding a vinyl graphics kit to your car is fairly simple and an inexpensive mod that will make a dramatic change to how your car looks. Car decals consist of three layers. The first or top layer of the decal is the piece that holds the entire application together until it is installed on a car. The middle layer is the actual decal that adheres to the car and the bottom layer is the wax backing that preserves the adhesive.
Items You Will Need:
Vinyl Graphics
Store Bought Application Fluid or Spray Bottle With Soap Water
(Mix 1 teaspoon of mild soap with 1 gallon of water)
Paper Towel Roll
Step By Step DIY Instructions:
1. Completely clean the outside of your car or the decal application area to remove any grease or dust particles that may prevent the decal from sticking to the surface. Make sure when you dry the car that you use a lint free cloth.
Never use harsh ammonia based cleaning products (i.e. Window Cleaner), they will cause your decals to bubble and peel a few weeks after application.
2. Test fit the decal on your car to figure out exactly where you want to apply the graphic with all 3 layers intact.
3. Use your spray bottle to wet the area where you are applying the sticker. Make sure there are no dry areas.
4. Peel the wax paper backing off of the decal to expose the adhesive side and spray lightly with the soap water mixture. Do not peel the top layer off just yet.
5. Put the sticky side of the decal to the surface of the car where you want it applied. Slide the decal around gently to make any adjustments until it is properly placed in the area you selected. Be careful not to rip it.
We recommend when applying larger graphics that you recruit a friend or two to help so avoid putting creases into the vinyl.
6. Using your squeegee, work all of the fluid and bubbles from the vinyl starting at the center and working your way out to the edges. Repeat the process a couple of times if necessary to get all of the soap water and trapped air from underneath the decal.
7. With the decal on your car, now spray the entire sticker to neutralize the glue. Squeegee it again to remove any remaining air pockets or fluids.
8. At this point, take a break. The decal needs to remain on your car for approximately 1/2 hour to a full hour depending on how warm it is outdoors. If you do not have time for the decal to dry on it's own, you can use a blowdryer on a low setting on the decal. Once it has dried, remove the top application layer peeling it straight up to reveal the decal. If the vinyl peels off when removing the top layer, go back to step 6. Make sure you do not try to remove the remaining layer until it is dry again.
9. With the vinyl on your car, trim any edges with excess vinyl using a sharp tool such as a razor. To tuck the edges around doors and gas caps, use a blowdryer to dry first and then pinch the edges to form it into place.
10. To ensure that you got all of the air bubbles from underneath the decal, you should give it one more good spray and run your squeegee over the decal one last time. Although you can drive your car without fear of the decals flying off, we suggest you wait 24 hours before washing, waxing or driving through rain/snow.
Car Covers
Buy Car Covers
Car covers are an essential protection against dirt, dust, UV rays, heat, rain, bird droppings and several other things. Not only do they protect a car, but they also help in retaining the new looks of the car. Hence, buying a car cover is a must. But, we all need to ascertain the functions and use of a car cover before we purchase one.
Car covers can either be custom-made or universal. Custom-made covers are tailored exactly according to a car’s measurements, while universal are available in certain standard measurements to suit almost all car types. Usually, custom-made car covers are preferred because of better protection. Some covers like the ‘satin stretch car cover’ from Coverking that provides a more fitting cover for your car.
Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, California Car Cover Co, Car Stuff, Car Covers-Car Bras, T. J. Custom Car Covers, Buy Automotive, Car Accessories, Auto Seattle, The Amazing Roll-up Car Cover, J.C Whitney, Car Bytes, Eastwood, Drive Werks, Exotic Wood Dash, Metro Parts Markets, and Race Pages are some companies that provide excellent quality car covers. Some companies such as Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, and Drive Werks also provide free shipping. Some companies that provide high-end car covers are CoverCraft, Auto Anything, Coverking, Lebra, Mopar, Bestop and SmittyBilt. These companies also provide guarantees ranging from a few months to a lifetime.
The materials used by car cover companies are Noah Barrier Fabric, WeatherShield, Polycotton, Tan Flannel, Evolution Technalon, Sunbrella, Dustop, Soft Weave, Plushweave, and others. While Noah Barrier Fabric and WeatherShield works great in both indoor and outdoor conditions, Tan Flannel works best for indoors. Dustop is believed to be extremely suitable for indoor uses, as it provides excellent protection against dust and other particles. Stormweave is suitable for all sorts of climatic conditions, such as snow, rain, dew or industrial pollutants.
Car covers are an essential protection against dirt, dust, UV rays, heat, rain, bird droppings and several other things. Not only do they protect a car, but they also help in retaining the new looks of the car. Hence, buying a car cover is a must. But, we all need to ascertain the functions and use of a car cover before we purchase one.
Car covers can either be custom-made or universal. Custom-made covers are tailored exactly according to a car’s measurements, while universal are available in certain standard measurements to suit almost all car types. Usually, custom-made car covers are preferred because of better protection. Some covers like the ‘satin stretch car cover’ from Coverking that provides a more fitting cover for your car.
Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, California Car Cover Co, Car Stuff, Car Covers-Car Bras, T. J. Custom Car Covers, Buy Automotive, Car Accessories, Auto Seattle, The Amazing Roll-up Car Cover, J.C Whitney, Car Bytes, Eastwood, Drive Werks, Exotic Wood Dash, Metro Parts Markets, and Race Pages are some companies that provide excellent quality car covers. Some companies such as Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, and Drive Werks also provide free shipping. Some companies that provide high-end car covers are CoverCraft, Auto Anything, Coverking, Lebra, Mopar, Bestop and SmittyBilt. These companies also provide guarantees ranging from a few months to a lifetime.
The materials used by car cover companies are Noah Barrier Fabric, WeatherShield, Polycotton, Tan Flannel, Evolution Technalon, Sunbrella, Dustop, Soft Weave, Plushweave, and others. While Noah Barrier Fabric and WeatherShield works great in both indoor and outdoor conditions, Tan Flannel works best for indoors. Dustop is believed to be extremely suitable for indoor uses, as it provides excellent protection against dust and other particles. Stormweave is suitable for all sorts of climatic conditions, such as snow, rain, dew or industrial pollutants.
Exhaust
The Best Out Of An EXHAUSTed System
Most of the motorists these days have one thing in common and that is the manifest disregard to some auto parts like the exhaust system. If you are to ask motorists when they inspect the system, you would probably get same reply. The most common occasion when they do such a task is when they are already hearing obvious noise. With that situation, the vehicles are likely to end up in the hands of a franchised exhaust specialist.
Auto exhaust parts experts suggest that motorists should inspect the system whenever it is on the lift for routine service. According to them, it makes perfect sense considering the expense of some of the parts like sensors, mufflers, catalytic converters and others.
Basically, an exhaust system transports burnt gases from the internal combustion engine. Exhaust parts accessories are mainly composed of pipes that vent waste gases. These gases may stream through a turbo charger to boost power, a catalytic converter to diminish air pollution, and a muffler to minimize noise. Clamps as well as bolted and welded connections and hangers hold the system together. So, in inspecting the whole system, motorists should look for snapped bolts, cracked welds, rusted joints, leaks and other deteriorated parts.
Experts added that rubber in the hangers like the doughnut-shaped bands used in hanging pipes should also be inspected. Car aftermarket parts exhaust is always under stress much more than the original equipment hangers. Moreover, it is recommended to select an aftermarket design that is not similarly shaped with the original hanger when replacing the latter. Another consideration is to be certain that installation can be had without twisting or aggravating the stress of the system. There is wide latitude of aftermarket exhausts available in auto parts dealers. Hence, it is definitely possible to hang the system sophisticated aftermarket parts.
In employing a lot of tensions to the auto exhaust system to make connections, there is a tendency that its parts could foul the body. The occurrence of which could produce repulsive noise and detrimental damage. In fact, it could even lead to eventual separation.
Some vehicle owners think that clamps that secure the catalytic converter and other sections are costly like the U-bolts used somewhere else in the system. The truth, according to auto parts dealers, is the exact opposite. The thick pipe ends on the converter need clamps that can withstand anywhere from 30 ft-lb of torque at the low end to more than 60 ft-lb at the high end. Moreover, when the original equipment clamp is a high strength type with a welded saddle and hardened nuts, experts advise the use an aftermarket equivalent for replacement.
The exhaust manifold joints that link to the pipes of the system or the fast light-off catalysts are other problem areas. A sealing ring found in the joint with the pipe could be noisy when there are leaks. Said joint gets a lot of pressure from engine's vibration. Despite the presence of spring-loaded bolting setup to maintain tension, it does not serve a lifetime setup. Coil springs could break and joint loosen hence; the system is always at risk.
To maximize the efficiency of the exhaust parts, vehicle owners should choose meticulously engineered exhaust system. In addition, the quality exhaust should be coupled with maintenance and regular inspection to preclude unnecessary expenditure in the future.
Most of the motorists these days have one thing in common and that is the manifest disregard to some auto parts like the exhaust system. If you are to ask motorists when they inspect the system, you would probably get same reply. The most common occasion when they do such a task is when they are already hearing obvious noise. With that situation, the vehicles are likely to end up in the hands of a franchised exhaust specialist.
Auto exhaust parts experts suggest that motorists should inspect the system whenever it is on the lift for routine service. According to them, it makes perfect sense considering the expense of some of the parts like sensors, mufflers, catalytic converters and others.
Basically, an exhaust system transports burnt gases from the internal combustion engine. Exhaust parts accessories are mainly composed of pipes that vent waste gases. These gases may stream through a turbo charger to boost power, a catalytic converter to diminish air pollution, and a muffler to minimize noise. Clamps as well as bolted and welded connections and hangers hold the system together. So, in inspecting the whole system, motorists should look for snapped bolts, cracked welds, rusted joints, leaks and other deteriorated parts.
Experts added that rubber in the hangers like the doughnut-shaped bands used in hanging pipes should also be inspected. Car aftermarket parts exhaust is always under stress much more than the original equipment hangers. Moreover, it is recommended to select an aftermarket design that is not similarly shaped with the original hanger when replacing the latter. Another consideration is to be certain that installation can be had without twisting or aggravating the stress of the system. There is wide latitude of aftermarket exhausts available in auto parts dealers. Hence, it is definitely possible to hang the system sophisticated aftermarket parts.
In employing a lot of tensions to the auto exhaust system to make connections, there is a tendency that its parts could foul the body. The occurrence of which could produce repulsive noise and detrimental damage. In fact, it could even lead to eventual separation.
Some vehicle owners think that clamps that secure the catalytic converter and other sections are costly like the U-bolts used somewhere else in the system. The truth, according to auto parts dealers, is the exact opposite. The thick pipe ends on the converter need clamps that can withstand anywhere from 30 ft-lb of torque at the low end to more than 60 ft-lb at the high end. Moreover, when the original equipment clamp is a high strength type with a welded saddle and hardened nuts, experts advise the use an aftermarket equivalent for replacement.
The exhaust manifold joints that link to the pipes of the system or the fast light-off catalysts are other problem areas. A sealing ring found in the joint with the pipe could be noisy when there are leaks. Said joint gets a lot of pressure from engine's vibration. Despite the presence of spring-loaded bolting setup to maintain tension, it does not serve a lifetime setup. Coil springs could break and joint loosen hence; the system is always at risk.
To maximize the efficiency of the exhaust parts, vehicle owners should choose meticulously engineered exhaust system. In addition, the quality exhaust should be coupled with maintenance and regular inspection to preclude unnecessary expenditure in the future.
Engines
Washing Your Engine
Cleaning the engine at first looks like a daunting task, but if you take your time and have patience the benefits will last for years.
Let’s assume you have an older Porsche whose engine has never been touched beyond changing the oil and minor maintenance. You look at all the grease and gunk and want to say "Forget it!" My 911E was like that, the car had been raced, rallied and toured to the point I had over 300,000 miles on it. The engine was well maintained and clean by those standards. But not where I thought a person could put their hands in there without coming out with a grease trophy.
So where do you start? With a good engine wash. Take a can of engine cleaner (GUNK or some other comparable product) and go down to the local "Do It Yourself" (DIY) car wash. Why the DIY, because;
A) The DIY tanks are set up for yucky engine junk and will not hurt the environment
B) Most of us do not have a high-pressure hose at home; you’ll need it.
C) The area around your car will be a mess afterwards
Here are the following things you will need to take with you on your journey to the local DIY (do-it-yourselfer).
Tape, Baggies, toothbrush, plastic wrap, rags, 2 plastic trash bags, towels, note pad, rubber bands, gloves and lots of quarters.
First thing to do is protect your electrical components. Take a baggie and put it over the distributor, next use the rubber band or tape to secure the baggie in place. Each model is unique on where the electrical components are located, my 911E has electronics on the left side of the engine. I use the plastic wrap to protect this area and tape to secure it. Look anywhere else the water may cause you car-starting problems. If you have exposed carburetors, use the plastic wrap or Baggies to protect them.
Next thing I do is disconnect the coil wire, this way I won’t pull a no-brainer of starting the car with plastic inside the engine. You can guess why I started doing this J . Write yourself a note to reconnect the coil wire and put it on the steering wheel. On the note pad, write down the places you put the plastic and tape/rubber bands, it may seem redundant but better safe than sorry. Now take the towels and place them over you fenders and the deck lid. This will protect your paint from any debris and chemicals that may over spray. I suggest you wear old clothes while cleaning your engine and use gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals (latex is best).
Now you are ready to attack the built up yucky gunk. Take your engine cleaner and spray it liberally in the areas of the engine that have the most built up grease on them. Let the engine cleaner soak for a few minutes, it will start eating away at the grease and dirt. Depending on how bad the build up is, this can take anywhere from a few minutes to 20 minutes. You probably will not get it all this first go around, so keep that in mind. While the engine cleaner is soaking, take the toothbrush and gently work the engine cleaner on the worst spots, if you have a severe build up, you may have to do this with a larger (not stiffer) brush. Once you have determined the engine cleaner has stopped working, you are ready to steam clean.
Set the DIY’s wand setting to engine or steam clean (it may be slightly different depending on where you live). Take care not to use the wand on the exterior paint of your car. The heat and pressure from the wand was not meant for your paint. Now use the wand inside the engine compartment to steam away the engine cleaner and grease. Be patient and get the wand onto the nooks and crannies. Do not forget to get the sides of the engine compartments as well, dirt gets kicked up into the engine from the fan and always seems to find it’s way on the shelves of the engine.
While you are steaming the inside of the engine, make sure you do not get water inside your plastic covers. Once you are satisfied you have taken out as much dirt as possible (this go around), set the wand to rinse. The rinse water usually has a softening agent and will rinse the chemicals out of the engine.
A word of warning, GUNK works great but smells horrible. If you use GUNK, do not do this on the same day you are going to use the car for a date or tour. It takes a couple days for the smell to go away. There are other engine cleaners out there, I have tried the Citrus ones (they smell better) and GUNK. For the nasty jobs I use the GUNK, for the easier ones (like the new car) I use the Citrus engine cleaners.
When you finish rinsing the engine out shut off the wand. Now take the rags you brought with you and wipe down the engine. Make sure you use some pressure on the rags while wiping it down. The grease has softened because for the heat of the water and will come off easily in your rag. When you are finished with one rag (because it is too dirty or wet) put it in one of the plastic trash bags. Keep wiping down until the engine is rather dry or you run out of rags. Next take the towels off the deck lid and fenders. Wipe down the paint with the part of the towels that did not get wet or exposed to the chemicals. When done with the towels, put these in the other trash sack.
Now you are ready to get the engine ready for starting. First take ALL the plastic, tape and rubber bands out of the engine. Next reconnect the coil wire and make sure there are not any other foreign objects in the engine, like towels, toothbrushes or gloves. Check your notepad to make sure you got all your protective wrapping out.
You may want to put a few more quarters in the machine and rinse down the area you have been working. Chances are some of your greasy gunk might be on your shoes or get on someone else’s, be considerate.
Sometimes our Porsche do not want to start right away after a washing, make sure you give it plenty of time to start and take care not to flood the engine. If you protected you electrical components from water, you Porsche should not have any problems starting up.
If you should have a problem, push the car into the sunshine and open the deck lid. Within a few minutes the components should dry out and you’ll be on your way.
If your engine was really bad, you may have to do the engine wash a couple times to get the worst junk out. Bare in mind, the grease and gunk took years to get there and it will not give up its home easily.
Cleaning the engine at first looks like a daunting task, but if you take your time and have patience the benefits will last for years.
Let’s assume you have an older Porsche whose engine has never been touched beyond changing the oil and minor maintenance. You look at all the grease and gunk and want to say "Forget it!" My 911E was like that, the car had been raced, rallied and toured to the point I had over 300,000 miles on it. The engine was well maintained and clean by those standards. But not where I thought a person could put their hands in there without coming out with a grease trophy.
So where do you start? With a good engine wash. Take a can of engine cleaner (GUNK or some other comparable product) and go down to the local "Do It Yourself" (DIY) car wash. Why the DIY, because;
A) The DIY tanks are set up for yucky engine junk and will not hurt the environment
B) Most of us do not have a high-pressure hose at home; you’ll need it.
C) The area around your car will be a mess afterwards
Here are the following things you will need to take with you on your journey to the local DIY (do-it-yourselfer).
Tape, Baggies, toothbrush, plastic wrap, rags, 2 plastic trash bags, towels, note pad, rubber bands, gloves and lots of quarters.
First thing to do is protect your electrical components. Take a baggie and put it over the distributor, next use the rubber band or tape to secure the baggie in place. Each model is unique on where the electrical components are located, my 911E has electronics on the left side of the engine. I use the plastic wrap to protect this area and tape to secure it. Look anywhere else the water may cause you car-starting problems. If you have exposed carburetors, use the plastic wrap or Baggies to protect them.
Next thing I do is disconnect the coil wire, this way I won’t pull a no-brainer of starting the car with plastic inside the engine. You can guess why I started doing this J . Write yourself a note to reconnect the coil wire and put it on the steering wheel. On the note pad, write down the places you put the plastic and tape/rubber bands, it may seem redundant but better safe than sorry. Now take the towels and place them over you fenders and the deck lid. This will protect your paint from any debris and chemicals that may over spray. I suggest you wear old clothes while cleaning your engine and use gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals (latex is best).
Now you are ready to attack the built up yucky gunk. Take your engine cleaner and spray it liberally in the areas of the engine that have the most built up grease on them. Let the engine cleaner soak for a few minutes, it will start eating away at the grease and dirt. Depending on how bad the build up is, this can take anywhere from a few minutes to 20 minutes. You probably will not get it all this first go around, so keep that in mind. While the engine cleaner is soaking, take the toothbrush and gently work the engine cleaner on the worst spots, if you have a severe build up, you may have to do this with a larger (not stiffer) brush. Once you have determined the engine cleaner has stopped working, you are ready to steam clean.
Set the DIY’s wand setting to engine or steam clean (it may be slightly different depending on where you live). Take care not to use the wand on the exterior paint of your car. The heat and pressure from the wand was not meant for your paint. Now use the wand inside the engine compartment to steam away the engine cleaner and grease. Be patient and get the wand onto the nooks and crannies. Do not forget to get the sides of the engine compartments as well, dirt gets kicked up into the engine from the fan and always seems to find it’s way on the shelves of the engine.
While you are steaming the inside of the engine, make sure you do not get water inside your plastic covers. Once you are satisfied you have taken out as much dirt as possible (this go around), set the wand to rinse. The rinse water usually has a softening agent and will rinse the chemicals out of the engine.
A word of warning, GUNK works great but smells horrible. If you use GUNK, do not do this on the same day you are going to use the car for a date or tour. It takes a couple days for the smell to go away. There are other engine cleaners out there, I have tried the Citrus ones (they smell better) and GUNK. For the nasty jobs I use the GUNK, for the easier ones (like the new car) I use the Citrus engine cleaners.
When you finish rinsing the engine out shut off the wand. Now take the rags you brought with you and wipe down the engine. Make sure you use some pressure on the rags while wiping it down. The grease has softened because for the heat of the water and will come off easily in your rag. When you are finished with one rag (because it is too dirty or wet) put it in one of the plastic trash bags. Keep wiping down until the engine is rather dry or you run out of rags. Next take the towels off the deck lid and fenders. Wipe down the paint with the part of the towels that did not get wet or exposed to the chemicals. When done with the towels, put these in the other trash sack.
Now you are ready to get the engine ready for starting. First take ALL the plastic, tape and rubber bands out of the engine. Next reconnect the coil wire and make sure there are not any other foreign objects in the engine, like towels, toothbrushes or gloves. Check your notepad to make sure you got all your protective wrapping out.
You may want to put a few more quarters in the machine and rinse down the area you have been working. Chances are some of your greasy gunk might be on your shoes or get on someone else’s, be considerate.
Sometimes our Porsche do not want to start right away after a washing, make sure you give it plenty of time to start and take care not to flood the engine. If you protected you electrical components from water, you Porsche should not have any problems starting up.
If you should have a problem, push the car into the sunshine and open the deck lid. Within a few minutes the components should dry out and you’ll be on your way.
If your engine was really bad, you may have to do the engine wash a couple times to get the worst junk out. Bare in mind, the grease and gunk took years to get there and it will not give up its home easily.
Brakes
Performance Car Brakes and Rotors
Your car’s brake system is one of the most essential components of your vehicle. While the engine and transmission work together to help your car go, the brakes and rotors work together to help your car stop -- provided that they are in good working condition. If you have the right tools on hand, you can do all of the maintenance yourself.
Depending on what make/model of vehicle you own, brake maintenance frequency can vary greatly. However, in all cases there are telltale signs your brakes need to be looked at when you notice any of the following happening:
Brakes squealing
Pulling of car from one side or the other
Wheel grabs
Squishy or spongy brake pedals
Brake pedal pumping
Brakes that won't release after pushing pedal
Sudden hard brake pedal
Grinding noise while braking
Leaking brake fluid observed
One or more of these problems occurring is a signal that your brake system needs help.
You can use standard replacement parts for adequate braking or you can elect to purchase parts that are favored by race car teams. Yes, something besides a parachute must stop these land rockets and you can install the same high performance brakes on your car as the NASCAR teams use. Brembo Brakes, EBC Brakes, Hawk Brakes, Power Slot Rotors, and Powerstop Brakes are some of the brands favored by race car enthusiasts. They are proven, high performance brake systems that will help your car stop quickly and cleanly every time.
Should you decide to do the job yourself, you will need to have the following tools on hand to get the work done:
Brake tools: spring pliers, hold-down remover
Hand tools
Drip tray
Mask
Gloves
Repair manual
If your car already has a performance exhaust system installed and under-the-hood performance upgrades in place, doesn’t it make sense to protect your investment by installing a high quality performance level brake system? Of course it does! Outfit your car today with genuine high performance parts.
Your car’s brake system is one of the most essential components of your vehicle. While the engine and transmission work together to help your car go, the brakes and rotors work together to help your car stop -- provided that they are in good working condition. If you have the right tools on hand, you can do all of the maintenance yourself.
Depending on what make/model of vehicle you own, brake maintenance frequency can vary greatly. However, in all cases there are telltale signs your brakes need to be looked at when you notice any of the following happening:
Brakes squealing
Pulling of car from one side or the other
Wheel grabs
Squishy or spongy brake pedals
Brake pedal pumping
Brakes that won't release after pushing pedal
Sudden hard brake pedal
Grinding noise while braking
Leaking brake fluid observed
One or more of these problems occurring is a signal that your brake system needs help.
You can use standard replacement parts for adequate braking or you can elect to purchase parts that are favored by race car teams. Yes, something besides a parachute must stop these land rockets and you can install the same high performance brakes on your car as the NASCAR teams use. Brembo Brakes, EBC Brakes, Hawk Brakes, Power Slot Rotors, and Powerstop Brakes are some of the brands favored by race car enthusiasts. They are proven, high performance brake systems that will help your car stop quickly and cleanly every time.
Should you decide to do the job yourself, you will need to have the following tools on hand to get the work done:
Brake tools: spring pliers, hold-down remover
Hand tools
Drip tray
Mask
Gloves
Repair manual
If your car already has a performance exhaust system installed and under-the-hood performance upgrades in place, doesn’t it make sense to protect your investment by installing a high quality performance level brake system? Of course it does! Outfit your car today with genuine high performance parts.
BMW 1-Series E87
BMW Isetta
BMW made the Isetta its own. They redesigned the powerplant around a more reliable BMW one-cylinder, four-stroke, 247 cc motorcycle engine making 13 hp. Although the major elements of the Italian design remained intact, BMW re-engineered much of the car, so much so that none of the parts between a BMW Isetta Moto Coupe and an Iso Isetta are interchangeable. The first BMW Isetta appeared in April, 1955.
BMW Isetta 250
While it retained the "Bubble Window" styling, it differed from the Italian model in that its headlamps were fixed separately to the sides of the bodywork and it carried the BMW badge below the windscreen. The car was also redesigned to take a modified version of the 250 cc 4-stroke engine from the BMW R25/3 motorcycle and the front suspension was changed. The single-cylinder generated 12 hp at 5800 rpm. The crankcase and cylinder were made of cast iron, the cylinder head of aluminium. However, the head was rotated by 180 degrees compared with the motorcycle engine. The twin-bearing crankshaft was also different in the Isetta power unit, being larger and featuring reinforced bearings. One of the reasons for this was the heavy Dynastart unit which combined the dynamo and self-starter. The fuel mixture was provided by a Bing sliding throttle side draft motorcycle carburettor. In addition to further changes of detail, the BMW engineers enlarged the sump for installation in the car and cooled the engine by means of a radial fan and shrouded ducting.
The power train from the four-speed gearbox to the two rear wheels was also unusual: fixed to the gearbox output drive was something called a Hardy disc, which was a cardan joint made of rubber. On the other side of it was a cardan shaft, and finally a second Hardy disc, which in turn was located at the entrance to a chain case. A duplex chain running in an oil bath led finally to a rigid shaft, at each end of which were the two rear wheels. Thanks to this elaborate power transfer, the engine-gearbox unit was both free of tension and well soundproofed in its linkage to the rear axle.
In Germany the Isetta could even be driven with a motorcycle licence. The top speed of the Isetta 250 was rated as 85 km/h.
The first BMW Isetta rolled off the line in April of 1955 and in the next eight months, some 10,000 of the "bubblecars" were produced.
BMW Isetta 300
In October 1956 the Isetta Moto Coupe DeLuxe (sliding-window Isetta) was introduced. The bubble windows were replaced by longer, sliding side windows. The engineers had enlarged the single cylinder to a 72 mm bore and 73 mm stroke, which gave a displacement of exactly 298 cc, and at the same time they raised the compression ratio from 6.8 to 7.0:1. In this way the engine now generated 13 hp (10 kW) at 5200 rpm, and the torque rose to 18.4 N·m at 4600 rpm. The maximum speed remained at 85 km/h, yet there was a marked increase in flexibility, chiefly noticeable on gradients.
In addition to the quest for better performance, there was another reason for the change: it was then still possible to drive the 250 cc Isetta with the old Class IV driving licence. Quite a number of Isettas were lovingly maintained by their owners for years and even decades, precisely because they possessed no other licence. On the other hand, from 1956 onwards, first-time drivers had to pass the test for Class III if they wanted to drive a car. True, the Class IV licence continued to be issued, but it was only valid for small motorcycles.
A second, similar reason for fitting the larger engine was the prevailing tax regime. The 250 cc engine did not take full advantage of the tax class, which then went up to 300 cc.
BMW Isetta 600
The BMW 600 was intended as an enlarged Isetta three-wheeler with more power and a more conventional four-wheel configuration.
The front end of the 600 was virtually unchanged from the Isetta, but the 600's wheelbase was stretched to accommodate four seats. A conventional rear axle was added. BMW introduced the semi-trailing arm independent suspension on the 600. This suspension would be used on almost every new model for the next four decades. Because of extra size and weight, the 600 had a more powerful engine than the Isetta. The 600 had the 582 cc twin engine from the R67 motorcycle. Top speed was 64 mph.
In two years only 34,000 600s were produced, partly due to price competition with the entry-level VW Beetle. In the late 1950s consumers wanted cars that looked like cars, and they had lost interest in economy models. Sales of the 600 were, however, aided by the energy crisis of 1956–1957.
In May 1962 BMW ceased production of the Isetta. A total of 161,728 units had been built.
BMW made the Isetta its own. They redesigned the powerplant around a more reliable BMW one-cylinder, four-stroke, 247 cc motorcycle engine making 13 hp. Although the major elements of the Italian design remained intact, BMW re-engineered much of the car, so much so that none of the parts between a BMW Isetta Moto Coupe and an Iso Isetta are interchangeable. The first BMW Isetta appeared in April, 1955.
BMW Isetta 250
While it retained the "Bubble Window" styling, it differed from the Italian model in that its headlamps were fixed separately to the sides of the bodywork and it carried the BMW badge below the windscreen. The car was also redesigned to take a modified version of the 250 cc 4-stroke engine from the BMW R25/3 motorcycle and the front suspension was changed. The single-cylinder generated 12 hp at 5800 rpm. The crankcase and cylinder were made of cast iron, the cylinder head of aluminium. However, the head was rotated by 180 degrees compared with the motorcycle engine. The twin-bearing crankshaft was also different in the Isetta power unit, being larger and featuring reinforced bearings. One of the reasons for this was the heavy Dynastart unit which combined the dynamo and self-starter. The fuel mixture was provided by a Bing sliding throttle side draft motorcycle carburettor. In addition to further changes of detail, the BMW engineers enlarged the sump for installation in the car and cooled the engine by means of a radial fan and shrouded ducting.
The power train from the four-speed gearbox to the two rear wheels was also unusual: fixed to the gearbox output drive was something called a Hardy disc, which was a cardan joint made of rubber. On the other side of it was a cardan shaft, and finally a second Hardy disc, which in turn was located at the entrance to a chain case. A duplex chain running in an oil bath led finally to a rigid shaft, at each end of which were the two rear wheels. Thanks to this elaborate power transfer, the engine-gearbox unit was both free of tension and well soundproofed in its linkage to the rear axle.
In Germany the Isetta could even be driven with a motorcycle licence. The top speed of the Isetta 250 was rated as 85 km/h.
The first BMW Isetta rolled off the line in April of 1955 and in the next eight months, some 10,000 of the "bubblecars" were produced.
BMW Isetta 300
In October 1956 the Isetta Moto Coupe DeLuxe (sliding-window Isetta) was introduced. The bubble windows were replaced by longer, sliding side windows. The engineers had enlarged the single cylinder to a 72 mm bore and 73 mm stroke, which gave a displacement of exactly 298 cc, and at the same time they raised the compression ratio from 6.8 to 7.0:1. In this way the engine now generated 13 hp (10 kW) at 5200 rpm, and the torque rose to 18.4 N·m at 4600 rpm. The maximum speed remained at 85 km/h, yet there was a marked increase in flexibility, chiefly noticeable on gradients.
In addition to the quest for better performance, there was another reason for the change: it was then still possible to drive the 250 cc Isetta with the old Class IV driving licence. Quite a number of Isettas were lovingly maintained by their owners for years and even decades, precisely because they possessed no other licence. On the other hand, from 1956 onwards, first-time drivers had to pass the test for Class III if they wanted to drive a car. True, the Class IV licence continued to be issued, but it was only valid for small motorcycles.
A second, similar reason for fitting the larger engine was the prevailing tax regime. The 250 cc engine did not take full advantage of the tax class, which then went up to 300 cc.
BMW Isetta 600
The BMW 600 was intended as an enlarged Isetta three-wheeler with more power and a more conventional four-wheel configuration.
The front end of the 600 was virtually unchanged from the Isetta, but the 600's wheelbase was stretched to accommodate four seats. A conventional rear axle was added. BMW introduced the semi-trailing arm independent suspension on the 600. This suspension would be used on almost every new model for the next four decades. Because of extra size and weight, the 600 had a more powerful engine than the Isetta. The 600 had the 582 cc twin engine from the R67 motorcycle. Top speed was 64 mph.
In two years only 34,000 600s were produced, partly due to price competition with the entry-level VW Beetle. In the late 1950s consumers wanted cars that looked like cars, and they had lost interest in economy models. Sales of the 600 were, however, aided by the energy crisis of 1956–1957.
In May 1962 BMW ceased production of the Isetta. A total of 161,728 units had been built.
BMW 120d (2005)
BMW 1-Series E87
The BMW 1 Series (code name E87) is a compact car / small family car produced by the German automaker BMW. Designed to compete against the Audi A3 and Volkswagen Golf, the 1 Series is the only vehicle in its class featuring rear-wheel drive and a longitudinally-mounted engine.
The 1 Series was first offered to the market in 2004 as a 5-door hatchback. It replaced the BMW Compact range and is currently the smallest and most affordable vehicle in the BMW range. Unlike its predecessor, the new vehicle is built on its own platform (E87), however, it shares many components with the E90 3 Series. These include MacPherson struts in the front of the car, and a trapezoidal-link rear axle.
The 1 Series is built in Regensburg, Germany, with some of the engines coming from the Hams Hall plant in Birmingham, England.
During its first full year on the market in 2005, it became one of BMW's most successful products. 149,493 units were sold, coming in third place: only the 3- and 5 Series sold better.
Engines
The engines available for E87 are basically the same as found in the E90/E91, with exception for the 3.0 L inline-6, which is slightly modified to produce more power. The engines below are preceded by their model year introduction.
In early 2006 the 5-speed manual transmission in the 116i and 118i, were phased out. Consequently, all models are equipped with the 6-speed by default.
Petrol engines:
2004- 116i: N45B16 1596 cc I4, 16 valves, 115 hp/85 kW, 150 Nm
2005- 118i: N46B20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 129 hp/95 kW, 180 Nm
2004- 120i: N46B20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 150 hp/110 kW, 200 Nm
2006- 130i: N52B30 2996 cc I6, 24 valves, 265 hp/195 kW, 315 Nm
Diesel engines:
2004- 118d: M47TU2D20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 122 hp/90 kW, 280 Nm
2004- 120d: M47TU2D20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 163 hp/120 kW, 340 Nm
Production
Sales statistics according to BMW.
2004: 39,247 (Launched in September)
2005: 149,493
The BMW 1 Series (code name E87) is a compact car / small family car produced by the German automaker BMW. Designed to compete against the Audi A3 and Volkswagen Golf, the 1 Series is the only vehicle in its class featuring rear-wheel drive and a longitudinally-mounted engine.
The 1 Series was first offered to the market in 2004 as a 5-door hatchback. It replaced the BMW Compact range and is currently the smallest and most affordable vehicle in the BMW range. Unlike its predecessor, the new vehicle is built on its own platform (E87), however, it shares many components with the E90 3 Series. These include MacPherson struts in the front of the car, and a trapezoidal-link rear axle.
The 1 Series is built in Regensburg, Germany, with some of the engines coming from the Hams Hall plant in Birmingham, England.
During its first full year on the market in 2005, it became one of BMW's most successful products. 149,493 units were sold, coming in third place: only the 3- and 5 Series sold better.
Engines
The engines available for E87 are basically the same as found in the E90/E91, with exception for the 3.0 L inline-6, which is slightly modified to produce more power. The engines below are preceded by their model year introduction.
In early 2006 the 5-speed manual transmission in the 116i and 118i, were phased out. Consequently, all models are equipped with the 6-speed by default.
Petrol engines:
2004- 116i: N45B16 1596 cc I4, 16 valves, 115 hp/85 kW, 150 Nm
2005- 118i: N46B20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 129 hp/95 kW, 180 Nm
2004- 120i: N46B20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 150 hp/110 kW, 200 Nm
2006- 130i: N52B30 2996 cc I6, 24 valves, 265 hp/195 kW, 315 Nm
Diesel engines:
2004- 118d: M47TU2D20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 122 hp/90 kW, 280 Nm
2004- 120d: M47TU2D20 1995 cc I4, 16 valves, 163 hp/120 kW, 340 Nm
Production
Sales statistics according to BMW.
2004: 39,247 (Launched in September)
2005: 149,493
BMW 1-Series 3-door (2008)
New BMW 1 Series arrives
The new BMW 1 Series goes on sale in Spring 2007 and features a model line up that includes the most fuel efficient production vehicle BMW has ever produced. The introduction of a three-door model and a revised five-door come as a raft of new fuel-saving innovations are rolled out across the range.
Technologies such as Brake Energy Regeneration, Automatic Start-Stop function and Electric Power Steering are combined with lower rolling resistant tyres and a gearshift change indicator to encourage economical motoring. These innovations are in addition to the use of variable valve technologies and High-Precision Direct Injection engines on some 1 Series models that boost power output but cut fuel consumption and emissions.
The BMW 118d, BMW's most economical car, manages its record 60.1mpg figure courtesy of these features in conjunction with the use of further lightweight engineering. The car now has an aluminium crankcase to save weight. Aside from the BMW Hydrogen 7, the BMW 118d also posts the lowest ever CO2 emissions of any BMW recording 123g/km (putting it into the Band C category for Vehicle Excise Duty).
Other engines in the new 1 Series range record economy improvements of up to 24 per cent compared to the previous model, while emissions have also been cut by up to 21 per cent. These improvements have not been to the detriment of driving pleasure. The new 1 Series is powered by a range of engines whose outputs have increased by up to 20hp with a consequential improvement in performance figures.
New fuel saving technology
Brake Energy Regeneration (iGR) makes its debut on the 1 Series. The system uses an Intelligent Alternator Control (IAC) and an Absorbent Glass Mat battery to recycle previously lost energy, in turn saving fuel. This is achieved as the IAC reduces drag on the engine by only engaging when required to charge the battery, whereas a traditional alternator is always pulling power from the engine. Additionally, the energy generated by the engine on over-run (under braking or descending a hill) was previously wasted. Now this lost energy is utilised by the IAC to charge the battery. iGR alone is responsible for a three per cent improvement in fuel economy.
The new 1 Series comes with Automatic Start-Stop function to cut fuel consumption. Standard on all manual transmission models (except 130i), the system automatically switches the engine off when the vehicle is stationary and the driver puts the car into neutral. To restart the driver only need engage the clutch again before pulling away in the normal manner. Should he not want to use the Automatic Start-Stop function it can be manually switched off.
The use of Electric Power Steering results in a 90 per cent energy saving compared to a conventional mechanical hydraulic steering system. Power assistance is now provided by an electric motor that works only when required, such as turning a corner. Other fuel saving enhancements have been made courtesy of various ancillary devices, such as the air-conditioning power supply being disconnected from the drivetrain when not in use. Even flaps behind the kidney grille improve economy, closing up for improved aerodynamic efficiency should the engine require less airflow. The feature also improves cold starting times.
Engine changes and statistics in detail
130i: World's lightest six-cylinder production engine with VALVETRONIC and Bi-VANOS technology achieves zero to 62mph in 6.0 seconds (five-door is 6.1 seconds) and an electronically limited top speed of 155mph. Output is 265bhp while peak torque is 315Nm. Combined fuel consumption is 34.0mpg and CO2 emissions are 197g/km.
120i: New four-cylinder engine with High-Precision Direct Injection and Bi-VANOS technology achieves zero to 62mph in 7.7 seconds (7.8 seconds for five-door) before going on to a top speed of 139mph. Output is 170hp (up 20hp) while peak torque is now 210Nm (up 10Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 44.1mpg (improves by 17 per cent), CO2 emissions are 152g/km (down 16 per cent).
118i: New four-cylinder engine with High-Precision Direct Injection and Bi-VANOS technology achieves zero to 62mpg in 8.7 seconds (8.8 seconds for five-door) before going on to a top speed of 130mph. Output is 143hp (up 14hp) while peak torque is now 190Nm (up 10Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 47.9mpg (improves by 24 per cent), CO2 emissions are 140g/km (down 20.5 per cent).
116i (five-door only): Four-cylinder engine with Bi-VANOS achieves zero to 62mph in 10.9 seconds and a top speed of 124mph. Output is 116hp and peak torque is 150Nm. Combined fuel consumption is 37.7mpg and CO2 emissions are 179g/km.
120d: Second generation common-rail diesel engine with aluminium crankcase achieves zero to 62mph in 7.5 seconds (7.6 seconds for five-door) before going on to a top speed of 142mph. Output is 177hp (up 14hp) while peak torque is 350Nm (up 10Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 57.6mpg (improves by 16 per cent) and CO2 emissions are 129g/km (down 15.1 per cent).
118d: Second generation common-rail diesel engine with aluminium crankcase achieves zero to 62mph in 8.9 seconds (9.0 seconds for five door) before going on to a top speed of 130mph. Output is 143hp (up 21 hp) while peak torque is 300Nm (up 20Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 60.1mpg (improves by 19 per cent) and CO2 emissions are 123g/km (down 18 per cent).
Low running costs
The plethora of new technology showcased in the BMW 1 Series will have a significant impact on cost of ownership for customers. For the company car driver all but two engine variants now sit in the Band C category for Vehicle Excise Duty. This results in a saving of up to £505 for someone paying 40 per cent tax and up to £278 for those in the 22 per cent tax bracket. For all owners fuel consumption improvement means a 12,000 miles-a-year driver will save approximately £250 off the fuel bill.
Traction and safety
All BMW 1 Series models come with Dynamic Stability Control with Dynamic Traction Control for the best combination driving pleasure and safety. DSC allows drivers to make the most of the 1 Series' 50:50 weight distribution and rear-wheel-drive configuration for the best on-road performance. The BMW 130i comes with five additional functions with its DSC+ system for enhanced convenience and driver safety: Hill Start Assistant, Brake Pre-tensioning, Brake Drying, Brake Fade Compensation and Soft Stop.
All BMW 1 Series have six airbags as standard, the Brake Force Display function on the rear lights to highlight sharp braking and Run-flat tyres with Tyre Puncture Warning System.
A new style of BMW 1 Series
To herald the introduction of the latest generation of engines, BMW's designers have refreshed the interior and exterior styling of the five-door model. The 1 Series now features a larger kidney grille for improved airflow to the engine. The lower front spoiler has also been reprofiled to create a larger air intake, while the spoiler protrudes further for a more pronounced, sporting look. The headlamp cluster remains the same size but a darker cover gives a subtle, more distinguished front end.
At the rear a restyled bumper gives the impression of a wider, lower car. The rear lamp cluster now features a new arrangement of lights, but retains its original shape.
The new three-door 1 Series features the same styling cues but its side view is naturally different. The passenger doors are longer than those on the five-door model and are also frameless in the style of a coupé. Inside, customers will also be able to choose between either a four-seat or a five-seat configuration. In the four-seat arrangement rear passengers are separated by a central storage compartment and sit in more sculptured seats. As a no-cost option the five-seat layout offers the traditional bench seat standard on the five-door 1 Series. The introduction of higher quality materials and minor changes to the layout of the interior enhance customer comfort and practicality.
Optional highlights
The new 1 Series comes with MP3 and USB stick capability for the best in in-car entertainment. Customers with their favourite music loaded on an Apple iPod or a USB stick can now plug these into the car to continue their listening. Tracks are selected via steering wheel controls or the iDrive system.
The optional Adaptive Headlights that turn to follow the intended course of the car have been improved on the 1 Series. Cornering light function is added to the package as standard. This means two additional lights turn at speeds of between 22 and 40mph to further illuminate the direction of travel on a twisting road.
Since its launch in September 2004, the BMW 1 Series has proved a popular choice. In the UK with 51,492 sold to date and in excess of 200,000 worldwide. The new three- and five-door BMW 1 Series models will be on display at the Geneva Motor Show in March and go on sale in the UK at the same time.
The new BMW 1 Series goes on sale in Spring 2007 and features a model line up that includes the most fuel efficient production vehicle BMW has ever produced. The introduction of a three-door model and a revised five-door come as a raft of new fuel-saving innovations are rolled out across the range.
Technologies such as Brake Energy Regeneration, Automatic Start-Stop function and Electric Power Steering are combined with lower rolling resistant tyres and a gearshift change indicator to encourage economical motoring. These innovations are in addition to the use of variable valve technologies and High-Precision Direct Injection engines on some 1 Series models that boost power output but cut fuel consumption and emissions.
The BMW 118d, BMW's most economical car, manages its record 60.1mpg figure courtesy of these features in conjunction with the use of further lightweight engineering. The car now has an aluminium crankcase to save weight. Aside from the BMW Hydrogen 7, the BMW 118d also posts the lowest ever CO2 emissions of any BMW recording 123g/km (putting it into the Band C category for Vehicle Excise Duty).
Other engines in the new 1 Series range record economy improvements of up to 24 per cent compared to the previous model, while emissions have also been cut by up to 21 per cent. These improvements have not been to the detriment of driving pleasure. The new 1 Series is powered by a range of engines whose outputs have increased by up to 20hp with a consequential improvement in performance figures.
New fuel saving technology
Brake Energy Regeneration (iGR) makes its debut on the 1 Series. The system uses an Intelligent Alternator Control (IAC) and an Absorbent Glass Mat battery to recycle previously lost energy, in turn saving fuel. This is achieved as the IAC reduces drag on the engine by only engaging when required to charge the battery, whereas a traditional alternator is always pulling power from the engine. Additionally, the energy generated by the engine on over-run (under braking or descending a hill) was previously wasted. Now this lost energy is utilised by the IAC to charge the battery. iGR alone is responsible for a three per cent improvement in fuel economy.
The new 1 Series comes with Automatic Start-Stop function to cut fuel consumption. Standard on all manual transmission models (except 130i), the system automatically switches the engine off when the vehicle is stationary and the driver puts the car into neutral. To restart the driver only need engage the clutch again before pulling away in the normal manner. Should he not want to use the Automatic Start-Stop function it can be manually switched off.
The use of Electric Power Steering results in a 90 per cent energy saving compared to a conventional mechanical hydraulic steering system. Power assistance is now provided by an electric motor that works only when required, such as turning a corner. Other fuel saving enhancements have been made courtesy of various ancillary devices, such as the air-conditioning power supply being disconnected from the drivetrain when not in use. Even flaps behind the kidney grille improve economy, closing up for improved aerodynamic efficiency should the engine require less airflow. The feature also improves cold starting times.
Engine changes and statistics in detail
130i: World's lightest six-cylinder production engine with VALVETRONIC and Bi-VANOS technology achieves zero to 62mph in 6.0 seconds (five-door is 6.1 seconds) and an electronically limited top speed of 155mph. Output is 265bhp while peak torque is 315Nm. Combined fuel consumption is 34.0mpg and CO2 emissions are 197g/km.
120i: New four-cylinder engine with High-Precision Direct Injection and Bi-VANOS technology achieves zero to 62mph in 7.7 seconds (7.8 seconds for five-door) before going on to a top speed of 139mph. Output is 170hp (up 20hp) while peak torque is now 210Nm (up 10Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 44.1mpg (improves by 17 per cent), CO2 emissions are 152g/km (down 16 per cent).
118i: New four-cylinder engine with High-Precision Direct Injection and Bi-VANOS technology achieves zero to 62mpg in 8.7 seconds (8.8 seconds for five-door) before going on to a top speed of 130mph. Output is 143hp (up 14hp) while peak torque is now 190Nm (up 10Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 47.9mpg (improves by 24 per cent), CO2 emissions are 140g/km (down 20.5 per cent).
116i (five-door only): Four-cylinder engine with Bi-VANOS achieves zero to 62mph in 10.9 seconds and a top speed of 124mph. Output is 116hp and peak torque is 150Nm. Combined fuel consumption is 37.7mpg and CO2 emissions are 179g/km.
120d: Second generation common-rail diesel engine with aluminium crankcase achieves zero to 62mph in 7.5 seconds (7.6 seconds for five-door) before going on to a top speed of 142mph. Output is 177hp (up 14hp) while peak torque is 350Nm (up 10Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 57.6mpg (improves by 16 per cent) and CO2 emissions are 129g/km (down 15.1 per cent).
118d: Second generation common-rail diesel engine with aluminium crankcase achieves zero to 62mph in 8.9 seconds (9.0 seconds for five door) before going on to a top speed of 130mph. Output is 143hp (up 21 hp) while peak torque is 300Nm (up 20Nm). Combined fuel consumption is 60.1mpg (improves by 19 per cent) and CO2 emissions are 123g/km (down 18 per cent).
Low running costs
The plethora of new technology showcased in the BMW 1 Series will have a significant impact on cost of ownership for customers. For the company car driver all but two engine variants now sit in the Band C category for Vehicle Excise Duty. This results in a saving of up to £505 for someone paying 40 per cent tax and up to £278 for those in the 22 per cent tax bracket. For all owners fuel consumption improvement means a 12,000 miles-a-year driver will save approximately £250 off the fuel bill.
Traction and safety
All BMW 1 Series models come with Dynamic Stability Control with Dynamic Traction Control for the best combination driving pleasure and safety. DSC allows drivers to make the most of the 1 Series' 50:50 weight distribution and rear-wheel-drive configuration for the best on-road performance. The BMW 130i comes with five additional functions with its DSC+ system for enhanced convenience and driver safety: Hill Start Assistant, Brake Pre-tensioning, Brake Drying, Brake Fade Compensation and Soft Stop.
All BMW 1 Series have six airbags as standard, the Brake Force Display function on the rear lights to highlight sharp braking and Run-flat tyres with Tyre Puncture Warning System.
A new style of BMW 1 Series
To herald the introduction of the latest generation of engines, BMW's designers have refreshed the interior and exterior styling of the five-door model. The 1 Series now features a larger kidney grille for improved airflow to the engine. The lower front spoiler has also been reprofiled to create a larger air intake, while the spoiler protrudes further for a more pronounced, sporting look. The headlamp cluster remains the same size but a darker cover gives a subtle, more distinguished front end.
At the rear a restyled bumper gives the impression of a wider, lower car. The rear lamp cluster now features a new arrangement of lights, but retains its original shape.
The new three-door 1 Series features the same styling cues but its side view is naturally different. The passenger doors are longer than those on the five-door model and are also frameless in the style of a coupé. Inside, customers will also be able to choose between either a four-seat or a five-seat configuration. In the four-seat arrangement rear passengers are separated by a central storage compartment and sit in more sculptured seats. As a no-cost option the five-seat layout offers the traditional bench seat standard on the five-door 1 Series. The introduction of higher quality materials and minor changes to the layout of the interior enhance customer comfort and practicality.
Optional highlights
The new 1 Series comes with MP3 and USB stick capability for the best in in-car entertainment. Customers with their favourite music loaded on an Apple iPod or a USB stick can now plug these into the car to continue their listening. Tracks are selected via steering wheel controls or the iDrive system.
The optional Adaptive Headlights that turn to follow the intended course of the car have been improved on the 1 Series. Cornering light function is added to the package as standard. This means two additional lights turn at speeds of between 22 and 40mph to further illuminate the direction of travel on a twisting road.
Since its launch in September 2004, the BMW 1 Series has proved a popular choice. In the UK with 51,492 sold to date and in excess of 200,000 worldwide. The new three- and five-door BMW 1 Series models will be on display at the Geneva Motor Show in March and go on sale in the UK at the same time.
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