Grip on steering wheel may be all Mboweni has
Policy decisions are based on guesses - because everyone's take on life is different and no one's version of reality is reliable.
Often they are educated guesses. When Reserve Bank governor Tito Mboweni and his monetary policy committee (MPC) make a call on interest rates, their decision could be called a very educated guess, based on vast quantities of the best available information.
But the best available information just isn't good enough. For a start, it's out of date before it reaches the governor's desk.
US Federal Reserve Board chairman Ben Bernanke dealt with this and other problems facing central bank governors in a speech in December 2004, long before his appointment last year as chairman.
He compared driving monetary policy to driving a car with "an unreliable speedometer, a foggy windshield and a tendency to respond unpredictably, and with a delay to the accelerator or the brake".
He explained that the data are available only after a lag, and that collecting and collating it is an imperfect process. So it's very difficult for anyone to determine precisely where an economy is in the cycle at any particular point.
It's also impossible to know whether the key central bank rate is at an appropriate level.
That's because "a family decision to buy a new home or a firm's decision to acquire new capital goods depend much more on longer-term interest rates - mortgage rates and corporate bond rates - than on the Federal funds rate", said Bernanke.
And long-term rates, in turn, depend on how "financial market participants expect the Federal funds rate and other short term rates to evolve over time".
So the process is circular.
In the circumstances, Bernanke said, driving monetary policy was like driving "a car whose speed at a particular moment depends not on the pressure on the accelerator at that moment, but on the expected average pressure on the accelerator over the rest of the trip".
That's as scary as finding out the bus driver left his glasses at home and borrowed a pair from a passenger.
The theme of uncertainty was picked up last month by Federal vice-chairman Donald Kohn. Forecasts of inflation, reflected by financial market movements, "only give us a sense of where inflation is expected to go, not why it is going there", he said.
His point was that, unless the central bank knows what is driving inflation, it can't decide on the appropriate policy move.
Of course, the greatest unknown - that central bankers know they don't know - is when monetary policy will kick in.
There is a lag before changes in interest rates affect borrowing and spending. But no one is sure exactly how long it will take, or how sharp the response will be when it comes.
Households and businesses can't immediately change course; moreover, if they did, the move might be too sharp.
And the process might have to be abruptly reversed.
Chris Stals, Mboweni's predecessor, once admitted that making monetary policy decisions was like launching an unguided missile and hoping it would arrive at the right spot.
A tiny error in the launch angle and it would overshoot its target by many multiples, he said.
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Auto Seats
An Overview Of Car Seat Covers
Car seat covers come in different sizes and shapes for various models of cars in the market. They come as bucket seats with headrests, single benches with split headrests, split benches with headrests, bucket and bench seats with armrests, solid benches and high- and low-back bucket seat covers, etc.
Car owners can choose their own materials for covering their seats. Sheepskin car seat covers, Hawaiian print covers and, of course, custom-made covers for your own model of car are now available in the market. They come in a wide range of prices starting from the inexpensive ones you get in the supermarket, which are usually ill-fitted for most seats, to very expensive custom-made leather seat covers, which give your car an elegant look.
Popular brand manufacturers of seat covers include Wet Okole, Covercraft, Cal Trend Auto Accessories and Shearcomfort.
Car seat care from Wet Okole includes routine washing of the seats with their special wetsuit shampoo and using their Hawaii Seat cover UV Protectant that stops the ultraviolet rays of the sun from damaging the seat covers.
Some important factors have to be taken into consideration when buying the perfect cover for your car seats. Seat covers should fit the model and make of your car. One has to take into account the price and quality of the covers; for example, inexpensive covers that are mass produced may not last very long. It is important to select covers that are machine washable and water repellant and to buy them from manufacturers who offer a life-time warranty.
Headrests are fitted on to the seats in different ways. If you select a cover for a headrest with two posts, make sure your car headrests are not supported by just one post. Also, take into consideration the fit of your seat belt, as some covers come with attached seat belts, which you may not need if your car already has them fitted to the upholstery.
Car seat covers come in different sizes and shapes for various models of cars in the market. They come as bucket seats with headrests, single benches with split headrests, split benches with headrests, bucket and bench seats with armrests, solid benches and high- and low-back bucket seat covers, etc.
Car owners can choose their own materials for covering their seats. Sheepskin car seat covers, Hawaiian print covers and, of course, custom-made covers for your own model of car are now available in the market. They come in a wide range of prices starting from the inexpensive ones you get in the supermarket, which are usually ill-fitted for most seats, to very expensive custom-made leather seat covers, which give your car an elegant look.
Popular brand manufacturers of seat covers include Wet Okole, Covercraft, Cal Trend Auto Accessories and Shearcomfort.
Car seat care from Wet Okole includes routine washing of the seats with their special wetsuit shampoo and using their Hawaii Seat cover UV Protectant that stops the ultraviolet rays of the sun from damaging the seat covers.
Some important factors have to be taken into consideration when buying the perfect cover for your car seats. Seat covers should fit the model and make of your car. One has to take into account the price and quality of the covers; for example, inexpensive covers that are mass produced may not last very long. It is important to select covers that are machine washable and water repellant and to buy them from manufacturers who offer a life-time warranty.
Headrests are fitted on to the seats in different ways. If you select a cover for a headrest with two posts, make sure your car headrests are not supported by just one post. Also, take into consideration the fit of your seat belt, as some covers come with attached seat belts, which you may not need if your car already has them fitted to the upholstery.
Automotive Decals
How To Install & Apply Car Vinyl Graphics
Adding a vinyl graphics kit to your car is fairly simple and an inexpensive mod that will make a dramatic change to how your car looks. Car decals consist of three layers. The first or top layer of the decal is the piece that holds the entire application together until it is installed on a car. The middle layer is the actual decal that adheres to the car and the bottom layer is the wax backing that preserves the adhesive.
Items You Will Need:
Vinyl Graphics
Store Bought Application Fluid or Spray Bottle With Soap Water
(Mix 1 teaspoon of mild soap with 1 gallon of water)
Paper Towel Roll
Step By Step DIY Instructions:
1. Completely clean the outside of your car or the decal application area to remove any grease or dust particles that may prevent the decal from sticking to the surface. Make sure when you dry the car that you use a lint free cloth.
Never use harsh ammonia based cleaning products (i.e. Window Cleaner), they will cause your decals to bubble and peel a few weeks after application.
2. Test fit the decal on your car to figure out exactly where you want to apply the graphic with all 3 layers intact.
3. Use your spray bottle to wet the area where you are applying the sticker. Make sure there are no dry areas.
4. Peel the wax paper backing off of the decal to expose the adhesive side and spray lightly with the soap water mixture. Do not peel the top layer off just yet.
5. Put the sticky side of the decal to the surface of the car where you want it applied. Slide the decal around gently to make any adjustments until it is properly placed in the area you selected. Be careful not to rip it.
We recommend when applying larger graphics that you recruit a friend or two to help so avoid putting creases into the vinyl.
6. Using your squeegee, work all of the fluid and bubbles from the vinyl starting at the center and working your way out to the edges. Repeat the process a couple of times if necessary to get all of the soap water and trapped air from underneath the decal.
7. With the decal on your car, now spray the entire sticker to neutralize the glue. Squeegee it again to remove any remaining air pockets or fluids.
8. At this point, take a break. The decal needs to remain on your car for approximately 1/2 hour to a full hour depending on how warm it is outdoors. If you do not have time for the decal to dry on it's own, you can use a blowdryer on a low setting on the decal. Once it has dried, remove the top application layer peeling it straight up to reveal the decal. If the vinyl peels off when removing the top layer, go back to step 6. Make sure you do not try to remove the remaining layer until it is dry again.
9. With the vinyl on your car, trim any edges with excess vinyl using a sharp tool such as a razor. To tuck the edges around doors and gas caps, use a blowdryer to dry first and then pinch the edges to form it into place.
10. To ensure that you got all of the air bubbles from underneath the decal, you should give it one more good spray and run your squeegee over the decal one last time. Although you can drive your car without fear of the decals flying off, we suggest you wait 24 hours before washing, waxing or driving through rain/snow.
Adding a vinyl graphics kit to your car is fairly simple and an inexpensive mod that will make a dramatic change to how your car looks. Car decals consist of three layers. The first or top layer of the decal is the piece that holds the entire application together until it is installed on a car. The middle layer is the actual decal that adheres to the car and the bottom layer is the wax backing that preserves the adhesive.
Items You Will Need:
Vinyl Graphics
Store Bought Application Fluid or Spray Bottle With Soap Water
(Mix 1 teaspoon of mild soap with 1 gallon of water)
Paper Towel Roll
Step By Step DIY Instructions:
1. Completely clean the outside of your car or the decal application area to remove any grease or dust particles that may prevent the decal from sticking to the surface. Make sure when you dry the car that you use a lint free cloth.
Never use harsh ammonia based cleaning products (i.e. Window Cleaner), they will cause your decals to bubble and peel a few weeks after application.
2. Test fit the decal on your car to figure out exactly where you want to apply the graphic with all 3 layers intact.
3. Use your spray bottle to wet the area where you are applying the sticker. Make sure there are no dry areas.
4. Peel the wax paper backing off of the decal to expose the adhesive side and spray lightly with the soap water mixture. Do not peel the top layer off just yet.
5. Put the sticky side of the decal to the surface of the car where you want it applied. Slide the decal around gently to make any adjustments until it is properly placed in the area you selected. Be careful not to rip it.
We recommend when applying larger graphics that you recruit a friend or two to help so avoid putting creases into the vinyl.
6. Using your squeegee, work all of the fluid and bubbles from the vinyl starting at the center and working your way out to the edges. Repeat the process a couple of times if necessary to get all of the soap water and trapped air from underneath the decal.
7. With the decal on your car, now spray the entire sticker to neutralize the glue. Squeegee it again to remove any remaining air pockets or fluids.
8. At this point, take a break. The decal needs to remain on your car for approximately 1/2 hour to a full hour depending on how warm it is outdoors. If you do not have time for the decal to dry on it's own, you can use a blowdryer on a low setting on the decal. Once it has dried, remove the top application layer peeling it straight up to reveal the decal. If the vinyl peels off when removing the top layer, go back to step 6. Make sure you do not try to remove the remaining layer until it is dry again.
9. With the vinyl on your car, trim any edges with excess vinyl using a sharp tool such as a razor. To tuck the edges around doors and gas caps, use a blowdryer to dry first and then pinch the edges to form it into place.
10. To ensure that you got all of the air bubbles from underneath the decal, you should give it one more good spray and run your squeegee over the decal one last time. Although you can drive your car without fear of the decals flying off, we suggest you wait 24 hours before washing, waxing or driving through rain/snow.
Car Covers
Buy Car Covers
Car covers are an essential protection against dirt, dust, UV rays, heat, rain, bird droppings and several other things. Not only do they protect a car, but they also help in retaining the new looks of the car. Hence, buying a car cover is a must. But, we all need to ascertain the functions and use of a car cover before we purchase one.
Car covers can either be custom-made or universal. Custom-made covers are tailored exactly according to a car’s measurements, while universal are available in certain standard measurements to suit almost all car types. Usually, custom-made car covers are preferred because of better protection. Some covers like the ‘satin stretch car cover’ from Coverking that provides a more fitting cover for your car.
Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, California Car Cover Co, Car Stuff, Car Covers-Car Bras, T. J. Custom Car Covers, Buy Automotive, Car Accessories, Auto Seattle, The Amazing Roll-up Car Cover, J.C Whitney, Car Bytes, Eastwood, Drive Werks, Exotic Wood Dash, Metro Parts Markets, and Race Pages are some companies that provide excellent quality car covers. Some companies such as Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, and Drive Werks also provide free shipping. Some companies that provide high-end car covers are CoverCraft, Auto Anything, Coverking, Lebra, Mopar, Bestop and SmittyBilt. These companies also provide guarantees ranging from a few months to a lifetime.
The materials used by car cover companies are Noah Barrier Fabric, WeatherShield, Polycotton, Tan Flannel, Evolution Technalon, Sunbrella, Dustop, Soft Weave, Plushweave, and others. While Noah Barrier Fabric and WeatherShield works great in both indoor and outdoor conditions, Tan Flannel works best for indoors. Dustop is believed to be extremely suitable for indoor uses, as it provides excellent protection against dust and other particles. Stormweave is suitable for all sorts of climatic conditions, such as snow, rain, dew or industrial pollutants.
Car covers are an essential protection against dirt, dust, UV rays, heat, rain, bird droppings and several other things. Not only do they protect a car, but they also help in retaining the new looks of the car. Hence, buying a car cover is a must. But, we all need to ascertain the functions and use of a car cover before we purchase one.
Car covers can either be custom-made or universal. Custom-made covers are tailored exactly according to a car’s measurements, while universal are available in certain standard measurements to suit almost all car types. Usually, custom-made car covers are preferred because of better protection. Some covers like the ‘satin stretch car cover’ from Coverking that provides a more fitting cover for your car.
Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, California Car Cover Co, Car Stuff, Car Covers-Car Bras, T. J. Custom Car Covers, Buy Automotive, Car Accessories, Auto Seattle, The Amazing Roll-up Car Cover, J.C Whitney, Car Bytes, Eastwood, Drive Werks, Exotic Wood Dash, Metro Parts Markets, and Race Pages are some companies that provide excellent quality car covers. Some companies such as Car Cover World, Mats-n-Covers, Auto Anything, and Drive Werks also provide free shipping. Some companies that provide high-end car covers are CoverCraft, Auto Anything, Coverking, Lebra, Mopar, Bestop and SmittyBilt. These companies also provide guarantees ranging from a few months to a lifetime.
The materials used by car cover companies are Noah Barrier Fabric, WeatherShield, Polycotton, Tan Flannel, Evolution Technalon, Sunbrella, Dustop, Soft Weave, Plushweave, and others. While Noah Barrier Fabric and WeatherShield works great in both indoor and outdoor conditions, Tan Flannel works best for indoors. Dustop is believed to be extremely suitable for indoor uses, as it provides excellent protection against dust and other particles. Stormweave is suitable for all sorts of climatic conditions, such as snow, rain, dew or industrial pollutants.
Exhaust
The Best Out Of An EXHAUSTed System
Most of the motorists these days have one thing in common and that is the manifest disregard to some auto parts like the exhaust system. If you are to ask motorists when they inspect the system, you would probably get same reply. The most common occasion when they do such a task is when they are already hearing obvious noise. With that situation, the vehicles are likely to end up in the hands of a franchised exhaust specialist.
Auto exhaust parts experts suggest that motorists should inspect the system whenever it is on the lift for routine service. According to them, it makes perfect sense considering the expense of some of the parts like sensors, mufflers, catalytic converters and others.
Basically, an exhaust system transports burnt gases from the internal combustion engine. Exhaust parts accessories are mainly composed of pipes that vent waste gases. These gases may stream through a turbo charger to boost power, a catalytic converter to diminish air pollution, and a muffler to minimize noise. Clamps as well as bolted and welded connections and hangers hold the system together. So, in inspecting the whole system, motorists should look for snapped bolts, cracked welds, rusted joints, leaks and other deteriorated parts.
Experts added that rubber in the hangers like the doughnut-shaped bands used in hanging pipes should also be inspected. Car aftermarket parts exhaust is always under stress much more than the original equipment hangers. Moreover, it is recommended to select an aftermarket design that is not similarly shaped with the original hanger when replacing the latter. Another consideration is to be certain that installation can be had without twisting or aggravating the stress of the system. There is wide latitude of aftermarket exhausts available in auto parts dealers. Hence, it is definitely possible to hang the system sophisticated aftermarket parts.
In employing a lot of tensions to the auto exhaust system to make connections, there is a tendency that its parts could foul the body. The occurrence of which could produce repulsive noise and detrimental damage. In fact, it could even lead to eventual separation.
Some vehicle owners think that clamps that secure the catalytic converter and other sections are costly like the U-bolts used somewhere else in the system. The truth, according to auto parts dealers, is the exact opposite. The thick pipe ends on the converter need clamps that can withstand anywhere from 30 ft-lb of torque at the low end to more than 60 ft-lb at the high end. Moreover, when the original equipment clamp is a high strength type with a welded saddle and hardened nuts, experts advise the use an aftermarket equivalent for replacement.
The exhaust manifold joints that link to the pipes of the system or the fast light-off catalysts are other problem areas. A sealing ring found in the joint with the pipe could be noisy when there are leaks. Said joint gets a lot of pressure from engine's vibration. Despite the presence of spring-loaded bolting setup to maintain tension, it does not serve a lifetime setup. Coil springs could break and joint loosen hence; the system is always at risk.
To maximize the efficiency of the exhaust parts, vehicle owners should choose meticulously engineered exhaust system. In addition, the quality exhaust should be coupled with maintenance and regular inspection to preclude unnecessary expenditure in the future.
Most of the motorists these days have one thing in common and that is the manifest disregard to some auto parts like the exhaust system. If you are to ask motorists when they inspect the system, you would probably get same reply. The most common occasion when they do such a task is when they are already hearing obvious noise. With that situation, the vehicles are likely to end up in the hands of a franchised exhaust specialist.
Auto exhaust parts experts suggest that motorists should inspect the system whenever it is on the lift for routine service. According to them, it makes perfect sense considering the expense of some of the parts like sensors, mufflers, catalytic converters and others.
Basically, an exhaust system transports burnt gases from the internal combustion engine. Exhaust parts accessories are mainly composed of pipes that vent waste gases. These gases may stream through a turbo charger to boost power, a catalytic converter to diminish air pollution, and a muffler to minimize noise. Clamps as well as bolted and welded connections and hangers hold the system together. So, in inspecting the whole system, motorists should look for snapped bolts, cracked welds, rusted joints, leaks and other deteriorated parts.
Experts added that rubber in the hangers like the doughnut-shaped bands used in hanging pipes should also be inspected. Car aftermarket parts exhaust is always under stress much more than the original equipment hangers. Moreover, it is recommended to select an aftermarket design that is not similarly shaped with the original hanger when replacing the latter. Another consideration is to be certain that installation can be had without twisting or aggravating the stress of the system. There is wide latitude of aftermarket exhausts available in auto parts dealers. Hence, it is definitely possible to hang the system sophisticated aftermarket parts.
In employing a lot of tensions to the auto exhaust system to make connections, there is a tendency that its parts could foul the body. The occurrence of which could produce repulsive noise and detrimental damage. In fact, it could even lead to eventual separation.
Some vehicle owners think that clamps that secure the catalytic converter and other sections are costly like the U-bolts used somewhere else in the system. The truth, according to auto parts dealers, is the exact opposite. The thick pipe ends on the converter need clamps that can withstand anywhere from 30 ft-lb of torque at the low end to more than 60 ft-lb at the high end. Moreover, when the original equipment clamp is a high strength type with a welded saddle and hardened nuts, experts advise the use an aftermarket equivalent for replacement.
The exhaust manifold joints that link to the pipes of the system or the fast light-off catalysts are other problem areas. A sealing ring found in the joint with the pipe could be noisy when there are leaks. Said joint gets a lot of pressure from engine's vibration. Despite the presence of spring-loaded bolting setup to maintain tension, it does not serve a lifetime setup. Coil springs could break and joint loosen hence; the system is always at risk.
To maximize the efficiency of the exhaust parts, vehicle owners should choose meticulously engineered exhaust system. In addition, the quality exhaust should be coupled with maintenance and regular inspection to preclude unnecessary expenditure in the future.
Engines
Washing Your Engine
Cleaning the engine at first looks like a daunting task, but if you take your time and have patience the benefits will last for years.
Let’s assume you have an older Porsche whose engine has never been touched beyond changing the oil and minor maintenance. You look at all the grease and gunk and want to say "Forget it!" My 911E was like that, the car had been raced, rallied and toured to the point I had over 300,000 miles on it. The engine was well maintained and clean by those standards. But not where I thought a person could put their hands in there without coming out with a grease trophy.
So where do you start? With a good engine wash. Take a can of engine cleaner (GUNK or some other comparable product) and go down to the local "Do It Yourself" (DIY) car wash. Why the DIY, because;
A) The DIY tanks are set up for yucky engine junk and will not hurt the environment
B) Most of us do not have a high-pressure hose at home; you’ll need it.
C) The area around your car will be a mess afterwards
Here are the following things you will need to take with you on your journey to the local DIY (do-it-yourselfer).
Tape, Baggies, toothbrush, plastic wrap, rags, 2 plastic trash bags, towels, note pad, rubber bands, gloves and lots of quarters.
First thing to do is protect your electrical components. Take a baggie and put it over the distributor, next use the rubber band or tape to secure the baggie in place. Each model is unique on where the electrical components are located, my 911E has electronics on the left side of the engine. I use the plastic wrap to protect this area and tape to secure it. Look anywhere else the water may cause you car-starting problems. If you have exposed carburetors, use the plastic wrap or Baggies to protect them.
Next thing I do is disconnect the coil wire, this way I won’t pull a no-brainer of starting the car with plastic inside the engine. You can guess why I started doing this J . Write yourself a note to reconnect the coil wire and put it on the steering wheel. On the note pad, write down the places you put the plastic and tape/rubber bands, it may seem redundant but better safe than sorry. Now take the towels and place them over you fenders and the deck lid. This will protect your paint from any debris and chemicals that may over spray. I suggest you wear old clothes while cleaning your engine and use gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals (latex is best).
Now you are ready to attack the built up yucky gunk. Take your engine cleaner and spray it liberally in the areas of the engine that have the most built up grease on them. Let the engine cleaner soak for a few minutes, it will start eating away at the grease and dirt. Depending on how bad the build up is, this can take anywhere from a few minutes to 20 minutes. You probably will not get it all this first go around, so keep that in mind. While the engine cleaner is soaking, take the toothbrush and gently work the engine cleaner on the worst spots, if you have a severe build up, you may have to do this with a larger (not stiffer) brush. Once you have determined the engine cleaner has stopped working, you are ready to steam clean.
Set the DIY’s wand setting to engine or steam clean (it may be slightly different depending on where you live). Take care not to use the wand on the exterior paint of your car. The heat and pressure from the wand was not meant for your paint. Now use the wand inside the engine compartment to steam away the engine cleaner and grease. Be patient and get the wand onto the nooks and crannies. Do not forget to get the sides of the engine compartments as well, dirt gets kicked up into the engine from the fan and always seems to find it’s way on the shelves of the engine.
While you are steaming the inside of the engine, make sure you do not get water inside your plastic covers. Once you are satisfied you have taken out as much dirt as possible (this go around), set the wand to rinse. The rinse water usually has a softening agent and will rinse the chemicals out of the engine.
A word of warning, GUNK works great but smells horrible. If you use GUNK, do not do this on the same day you are going to use the car for a date or tour. It takes a couple days for the smell to go away. There are other engine cleaners out there, I have tried the Citrus ones (they smell better) and GUNK. For the nasty jobs I use the GUNK, for the easier ones (like the new car) I use the Citrus engine cleaners.
When you finish rinsing the engine out shut off the wand. Now take the rags you brought with you and wipe down the engine. Make sure you use some pressure on the rags while wiping it down. The grease has softened because for the heat of the water and will come off easily in your rag. When you are finished with one rag (because it is too dirty or wet) put it in one of the plastic trash bags. Keep wiping down until the engine is rather dry or you run out of rags. Next take the towels off the deck lid and fenders. Wipe down the paint with the part of the towels that did not get wet or exposed to the chemicals. When done with the towels, put these in the other trash sack.
Now you are ready to get the engine ready for starting. First take ALL the plastic, tape and rubber bands out of the engine. Next reconnect the coil wire and make sure there are not any other foreign objects in the engine, like towels, toothbrushes or gloves. Check your notepad to make sure you got all your protective wrapping out.
You may want to put a few more quarters in the machine and rinse down the area you have been working. Chances are some of your greasy gunk might be on your shoes or get on someone else’s, be considerate.
Sometimes our Porsche do not want to start right away after a washing, make sure you give it plenty of time to start and take care not to flood the engine. If you protected you electrical components from water, you Porsche should not have any problems starting up.
If you should have a problem, push the car into the sunshine and open the deck lid. Within a few minutes the components should dry out and you’ll be on your way.
If your engine was really bad, you may have to do the engine wash a couple times to get the worst junk out. Bare in mind, the grease and gunk took years to get there and it will not give up its home easily.
Cleaning the engine at first looks like a daunting task, but if you take your time and have patience the benefits will last for years.
Let’s assume you have an older Porsche whose engine has never been touched beyond changing the oil and minor maintenance. You look at all the grease and gunk and want to say "Forget it!" My 911E was like that, the car had been raced, rallied and toured to the point I had over 300,000 miles on it. The engine was well maintained and clean by those standards. But not where I thought a person could put their hands in there without coming out with a grease trophy.
So where do you start? With a good engine wash. Take a can of engine cleaner (GUNK or some other comparable product) and go down to the local "Do It Yourself" (DIY) car wash. Why the DIY, because;
A) The DIY tanks are set up for yucky engine junk and will not hurt the environment
B) Most of us do not have a high-pressure hose at home; you’ll need it.
C) The area around your car will be a mess afterwards
Here are the following things you will need to take with you on your journey to the local DIY (do-it-yourselfer).
Tape, Baggies, toothbrush, plastic wrap, rags, 2 plastic trash bags, towels, note pad, rubber bands, gloves and lots of quarters.
First thing to do is protect your electrical components. Take a baggie and put it over the distributor, next use the rubber band or tape to secure the baggie in place. Each model is unique on where the electrical components are located, my 911E has electronics on the left side of the engine. I use the plastic wrap to protect this area and tape to secure it. Look anywhere else the water may cause you car-starting problems. If you have exposed carburetors, use the plastic wrap or Baggies to protect them.
Next thing I do is disconnect the coil wire, this way I won’t pull a no-brainer of starting the car with plastic inside the engine. You can guess why I started doing this J . Write yourself a note to reconnect the coil wire and put it on the steering wheel. On the note pad, write down the places you put the plastic and tape/rubber bands, it may seem redundant but better safe than sorry. Now take the towels and place them over you fenders and the deck lid. This will protect your paint from any debris and chemicals that may over spray. I suggest you wear old clothes while cleaning your engine and use gloves to protect your hands from the chemicals (latex is best).
Now you are ready to attack the built up yucky gunk. Take your engine cleaner and spray it liberally in the areas of the engine that have the most built up grease on them. Let the engine cleaner soak for a few minutes, it will start eating away at the grease and dirt. Depending on how bad the build up is, this can take anywhere from a few minutes to 20 minutes. You probably will not get it all this first go around, so keep that in mind. While the engine cleaner is soaking, take the toothbrush and gently work the engine cleaner on the worst spots, if you have a severe build up, you may have to do this with a larger (not stiffer) brush. Once you have determined the engine cleaner has stopped working, you are ready to steam clean.
Set the DIY’s wand setting to engine or steam clean (it may be slightly different depending on where you live). Take care not to use the wand on the exterior paint of your car. The heat and pressure from the wand was not meant for your paint. Now use the wand inside the engine compartment to steam away the engine cleaner and grease. Be patient and get the wand onto the nooks and crannies. Do not forget to get the sides of the engine compartments as well, dirt gets kicked up into the engine from the fan and always seems to find it’s way on the shelves of the engine.
While you are steaming the inside of the engine, make sure you do not get water inside your plastic covers. Once you are satisfied you have taken out as much dirt as possible (this go around), set the wand to rinse. The rinse water usually has a softening agent and will rinse the chemicals out of the engine.
A word of warning, GUNK works great but smells horrible. If you use GUNK, do not do this on the same day you are going to use the car for a date or tour. It takes a couple days for the smell to go away. There are other engine cleaners out there, I have tried the Citrus ones (they smell better) and GUNK. For the nasty jobs I use the GUNK, for the easier ones (like the new car) I use the Citrus engine cleaners.
When you finish rinsing the engine out shut off the wand. Now take the rags you brought with you and wipe down the engine. Make sure you use some pressure on the rags while wiping it down. The grease has softened because for the heat of the water and will come off easily in your rag. When you are finished with one rag (because it is too dirty or wet) put it in one of the plastic trash bags. Keep wiping down until the engine is rather dry or you run out of rags. Next take the towels off the deck lid and fenders. Wipe down the paint with the part of the towels that did not get wet or exposed to the chemicals. When done with the towels, put these in the other trash sack.
Now you are ready to get the engine ready for starting. First take ALL the plastic, tape and rubber bands out of the engine. Next reconnect the coil wire and make sure there are not any other foreign objects in the engine, like towels, toothbrushes or gloves. Check your notepad to make sure you got all your protective wrapping out.
You may want to put a few more quarters in the machine and rinse down the area you have been working. Chances are some of your greasy gunk might be on your shoes or get on someone else’s, be considerate.
Sometimes our Porsche do not want to start right away after a washing, make sure you give it plenty of time to start and take care not to flood the engine. If you protected you electrical components from water, you Porsche should not have any problems starting up.
If you should have a problem, push the car into the sunshine and open the deck lid. Within a few minutes the components should dry out and you’ll be on your way.
If your engine was really bad, you may have to do the engine wash a couple times to get the worst junk out. Bare in mind, the grease and gunk took years to get there and it will not give up its home easily.
Brakes
Performance Car Brakes and Rotors
Your car’s brake system is one of the most essential components of your vehicle. While the engine and transmission work together to help your car go, the brakes and rotors work together to help your car stop -- provided that they are in good working condition. If you have the right tools on hand, you can do all of the maintenance yourself.
Depending on what make/model of vehicle you own, brake maintenance frequency can vary greatly. However, in all cases there are telltale signs your brakes need to be looked at when you notice any of the following happening:
Brakes squealing
Pulling of car from one side or the other
Wheel grabs
Squishy or spongy brake pedals
Brake pedal pumping
Brakes that won't release after pushing pedal
Sudden hard brake pedal
Grinding noise while braking
Leaking brake fluid observed
One or more of these problems occurring is a signal that your brake system needs help.
You can use standard replacement parts for adequate braking or you can elect to purchase parts that are favored by race car teams. Yes, something besides a parachute must stop these land rockets and you can install the same high performance brakes on your car as the NASCAR teams use. Brembo Brakes, EBC Brakes, Hawk Brakes, Power Slot Rotors, and Powerstop Brakes are some of the brands favored by race car enthusiasts. They are proven, high performance brake systems that will help your car stop quickly and cleanly every time.
Should you decide to do the job yourself, you will need to have the following tools on hand to get the work done:
Brake tools: spring pliers, hold-down remover
Hand tools
Drip tray
Mask
Gloves
Repair manual
If your car already has a performance exhaust system installed and under-the-hood performance upgrades in place, doesn’t it make sense to protect your investment by installing a high quality performance level brake system? Of course it does! Outfit your car today with genuine high performance parts.
Your car’s brake system is one of the most essential components of your vehicle. While the engine and transmission work together to help your car go, the brakes and rotors work together to help your car stop -- provided that they are in good working condition. If you have the right tools on hand, you can do all of the maintenance yourself.
Depending on what make/model of vehicle you own, brake maintenance frequency can vary greatly. However, in all cases there are telltale signs your brakes need to be looked at when you notice any of the following happening:
Brakes squealing
Pulling of car from one side or the other
Wheel grabs
Squishy or spongy brake pedals
Brake pedal pumping
Brakes that won't release after pushing pedal
Sudden hard brake pedal
Grinding noise while braking
Leaking brake fluid observed
One or more of these problems occurring is a signal that your brake system needs help.
You can use standard replacement parts for adequate braking or you can elect to purchase parts that are favored by race car teams. Yes, something besides a parachute must stop these land rockets and you can install the same high performance brakes on your car as the NASCAR teams use. Brembo Brakes, EBC Brakes, Hawk Brakes, Power Slot Rotors, and Powerstop Brakes are some of the brands favored by race car enthusiasts. They are proven, high performance brake systems that will help your car stop quickly and cleanly every time.
Should you decide to do the job yourself, you will need to have the following tools on hand to get the work done:
Brake tools: spring pliers, hold-down remover
Hand tools
Drip tray
Mask
Gloves
Repair manual
If your car already has a performance exhaust system installed and under-the-hood performance upgrades in place, doesn’t it make sense to protect your investment by installing a high quality performance level brake system? Of course it does! Outfit your car today with genuine high performance parts.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)